New Clutch and Oil Change
The new master and salve cylinder didn't completely fix the problem which pretty much meant the clutch needed to be replaced. There were 2 different clutches listed for the 260z from Repco. I ordered part number R63N as I already had an old box for one at home and figured it was the one I needed. Turns out this one is for the 240z, the 260z required a taller pressure plate (and a more expensive one, $230).
So I took the clutch back and they supplied the other part (number ####) however when I got home and opened it up it look like it had been used. Finally went back the 3rd time where they swapped it for an Exedy clutch for the same price (RRP $270). Got the gearbox back in and whilst it was up on the stands I did an oil change with a new filter.
Car is now back up and running again.
S&M of the cylinder variety
I tried bleeding the clutch recently and it was just pumping a heap of air through the system. Pretty sure the master cylinder is gone. Hopefully this was my "clutch" problem I previously mentioned.
Order a new master and slave cylinder from Repco which came to $125.
IBS Brake Parts:
Slave: IBS-JB4055
Master: IBS-JB1498
Installing these parts didn't completely fix the problem, so a new clutch it is....
Clutch-a-rific
Been hard to get in and out of gear lately, checked the fluids and they were low. I've topped them up but need to bleed it to make sure it is just the fluid and not the clutch on the way out. If it is it would be mighty irritating seeing as though we just had the gearbox out >:|
If it comes to that, I do have a spare heavy duty clutch that was in my yellow car briefly.
New Gearbox
We got the new (old) gearbox in on the weekend. The box whines in all gears except 4th, but we knew this before putting it in. A member on VicZCar.com recommended mising 1/3 auto trans fluid with 80w 90 gearbox oil to help deglaze the rings which might stop some of the whine. It sounds more like a bearing issue to me though.
Anyway the box is in and the car is driving again.
Sparkplugs
The front spark plug has been gunking up nearly every trip recently. It's not a good sign as the rest of the plugs are burning quite nicely which makes me think maybe piston or piston ring. Anyway filled it up with oil and cleaned the spark plug for the 5th time and it seems to be running alright now. I will rebuild the engine when I convert everything into the new body.
New Distributor Breaker Plates
My new vacuum advance pot and breaker plate assembly arrived from Z Specialites .
There is a plastic bearing housing on the 280zx electronic distributors the breaks over time (about 10 years I'm told) causing the vacuum advance to not function correctly. I ordered an "upgraded" metal breaker plate assembly from Z Specialties but it took about 2 months to complete the transaction and when they arrived they were still the plastic types. They offered a refund but with shipping etc it wouldn't have been worth it.
I have cad-ed up the bearing housing so i should be able to get some cut out of aluminium soon.
Service – Battery and Alternator
The car broke down on the 18th of February 2010. The battery was flat and I just assumed it was the old battery (about 5 years old at this point) as the alternator was replaced with a brand new unit around 2006. So I got a new battery from Supercheap for $135, put that in and thought I was good to go.
I should have checked the charge but I was busy at them time and just assumed it was fine. Unsurprisingly, the car broke down again the next week. After checking the charge (doing about 12.4 volts with the lights and fan on) I was pretty sure the alternator was stuffed.
I took it to http://www.kedroncarelectrics.com.au/ where they rebuilt the alternator for $220. The car is now working fine again.
Intro
I purchased this car around mid 2005 for $1500. We had to do a few things to it to get it roadworthy. Someone had installed a single locking pin on the hood which had to be replaced with a double locking mechanism, so we just put an original latch back on it. Some of the wheel bearings needed to be replaced (on the front I believe) and the breaks needed a bit of a service. My dad fixed some rust in the drivers side floor, bending up new panels to match the original contours of the car. For the passengers side we said screw it, and just welded in some flat panels. This was just meant to be a cheap daily driver anyway.
Anyway, the car was registered and on the road for about $2500.
